MYSTERY MUNCHER: Naan Indian Bistro debuts at Moorestown Mall. Fourth in a series of restaurants.

To this day, the Mystery Muncher recalls his first taste of goat, during a lunch-hour visit to an Indian cuisine buffet. What started as a simple food exploration turned into an appreciation of the meat, and Muncher always headed to that tray at the buffet.

So you can appreciate Muncher's glee when, on Thursday night, he spotted a signature dish at the newly opened Naan Indian Bistro at the Moorestown Mall: Goat Gymkhana ($30) featuring a spiced onion tomato gravy.

Muncher is just that — an average restaurant customer who is not a reviewer. But Naan's goat dish immediately rose to the top of the Muncher's list of favorite goat cuisine.

How does the Mystery Muncher rate restaurants? By an agreed-upon "yes" or "no" with Muncher No. 2 about whether they would recommend the restaurant to friends. A "no" vote means you will never read about the visit on 70and73.com.

Naan, a gourmet restaurant that had its "soft opening" last Sunday, earned a resounding "yes." You can't miss the place — the entrance is to the left of the large, giant "M," mall entrance that faces Route 38. Chipotle used to occupy the space.

If you have suggestions for Mystery Muncher, email contactus@70and73.com. We dine incognito and always pay for our own meals, although we may reach out to interview restaurant management after our visit. Restaurants that make it to the Mystery Muncher series are ones we would recommend to friends. We dine as typical consumers, and not restaurant critics.

Naan has three related Indian cuisine restaurants: Coriander in Voorhees, Indiya in Collingswood and Veda at Rittenhouse Square in Philadelphia. Coriander was the first of the four, opening in 2004 at the Ritz shopping center on Haddonfield-Berlin Road.

"It's just a great neighborhood," co-owner and Naan General Manager Hayden Auguste told 70and73.com on Friday about the reason for opening in Moorestown.

Auguste, who was general manager of Veda, said the demographics of the area and the relatively large Asian Indian population was an attraction for the owners.

The menus at each of the four restaurants are similar, but not exact, Auguste explained. For example, the goat dish is not offered in Philadelphia, as it is at Naan.

Dishes on the menu are the creation of Vipul Bhasin, a co-owner and executive chef for the restaurants. He founded Coriander. Bhasin was the Indian-specialty chef at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Delhi, India before migrating to the United States in 1992.  Another owner is Raj Singh.

Auguste explained that Bhasin oversees the kitchens of all four restaurants, training chefs and developing dishes.

At Naan on Thursday, the Mystery Muncher on a whim decided to try the Spicy Corn Soup ($7) and the spicy-hot dish was rated as a "have again" because of its unique flavor. Several drops of chili oil add to the spiciness. To reduce the hot rating, ask the wait staff to omit the oil.

The corn soup on the menu is marked with a "v," designating vegetarian. Other menu items also are rated "gf," for gluten-free. 

Naan, of course, takes its name from the Indian word for a thin, leavened bread. A restaurant named Naan has to offer more than the garden-variety bread, and the menu lists 10 different choices. Muncher ordered the Chili Cilantro Naan ($5) and had so much he had to take some home.  A sampling, from the large menu: regular Naan, brushed with a garlic herb butter ($4); Goat Cheese Naan ($7), with goat cheese and herbs; Kashmiri Naan ($7), with coconut, almonds, raisins and cashews and gluten-free Makki-ki-roti ($6), made with corn flour.

We chose two small plates: Chicken Murmuri Rolls ($10), six halves of hand-rolled, shredded-chicken egg rolls stuffed with peppers and onions, and Goan Crab Cakes ($13), two handmade crabcakes flash-fried served with tomato chutney and sriracha aioli. The egg rolls came with two tasty sauces: tamarind and date and mint.

The rolls were fat, filling and tasty and the bed of tomato chutney served under the crab cakes was a hit with Muncher No. 2.

Muncher No. 2 ordered the signature dish Konkan Fish Curry ($32), which the menu notes as pan-seared sea bass stuffed with shrimp served with sauteed spinach in a velvety tomato base sauce.

Understand that Muncher No. 2 frequently orders sea bass and is a scrutinizing critic. If the dish smells fishy or has a bad consistency, she openly grimaces. No grimace at Naan. She gave the sea bass dish a high rating, with absolutely no wrinkled nose, and would order it again.

While the Muncher was happy with a glass of tap water, Muncher No. 2 ordered the Mango Lassi drink ($5), a yogurt and fruit blend. That also got high approval from  Muncher No. 2 and served as creamy relief from some of the spicier dishes.  

Besides the goat and sea bass, the other signature dish on the menu is The Taj ($27), curried potato petals, grilled eggplant and peas, topped with cauliflower mousse.

Entrees come with Pulao Rice or it can be ordered as a side ($5) in addition to sides Cucumber Raita ($4), Mango Chutney ($4) and Onion and Chili Salad ($4).

We were tempted by the dessert menu, but neither the Muncher nor Muncher No. 2 had room left. Desserts include Kulfi with Poached Blueberries ($7), "malai kulfi (Indian ice cream), poached blueberries and creme-de-cassis" and Gulab Jamun Ice Cream ($7), "khoya beignet, rose-flavored syrup, scoop of vanilla ice cream." If you are not an ice cream lover, another dessert, and gluten free, is Saffron Kheer ($7), "Indian rice pudding saffron, cardamom (a spice)."

Our server was friendly, engaging and knew details on the menu selections. GM Auguste said the wait staff and other workers are key to the success of his restaurants.

While he said he loves the "grind" of the business, he also said his goal is to "change the culture to make it more of a work-life balance" for the staff.

"We really try to make it into a career for the staff," said Auguste, who was born in Haiti and grew up in the Delaware County suburbs of Philadelphia. He still lives in Delaware County to be close to his family.

Medical, dental and vision coverage is offered employees. If the staff is giving you 40 to 45 hours a week, the right thing to do is to also offer coverage, he said.

"People deserve to live with dignity," Auguste added. 

The basics

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch, 4:30 to 9 p.m. for dinner. Every day.

Pickup and delivery hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Every day.

Address: Moorestown Mall, Route 38, Moorestown. Between the big "M" sign at the main mall entrance and Planet Fitness.

Telephone: (856) 372-2967 or (856) 638-5378.

Online reservations: RESY 

Dinner menu: Dinner – Naan (naannj.com)

Lunch menu: Lunch – Naan (naannj.com)

Website: naannj.com

Facebook: facebook.com/naanindianbistro

Takeout orders: Yes

Alcohol: BYOB